First, why do you want a Storm Window? What are you trying to do? Is it for Energy Efficiency? Or, perhaps this is a less expensive investment versus replacing your windows? Maybe you live in a historical area that won’t let you replace windows due to covenants and Storm Windows are your only choice? Or, maybe you love your current windows but they’re just not providing that energy benefit you need? The questions could go on. In summary, you’re considering Storm Windows for one reason or another and you need to know a little bit more about them.

As we all know, just about anyone and everyone is energy conscience today. Everyone is mindful to not waste anything, especially precious energy. Today’s fuel costs are high and they are only going higher. It behooves everyone to ensure their home is as energy efficient as they can make it with the funds they have. Storm Windows may be a consideration to help achieve this goal.

What is a Storm Window?
Its self-contained unit that is fitted over your existing window (normally mounted externally) that provides an additional thermal and physical boundary. They provide a boost in the performance of the overall window area while providing protection to the accompanying home’s window unit. Sometimes this boost is noticeable, other times, it is minimal. It really depends on what type of window the Storm Window is placed over.

Today, Storm Windows come in all shapes and sizes. Mostly, they are custom manufactured for an exact fit. They can open or be stationary. They can provide ventilation and allow in filtered light with minimal UV Rays (the stuff that fades furniture, carpets, etc).

Storm Windows are normally constructed from aluminum for both frame and sash construction with single pane (one piece) glass. Wood Storm Windows are also available today, but not recommended. They are a dying breed. Locating someone who makes them could present a great challenge.

Storm windows come in a multitude of colors today with energy efficient glass, UV protection, and even shatter proof glass systems.They are certainly engineered to endure and perform within theparameters of their design.

The price of Storm Windows varies. They can be basic to custom. This affects the price. Normally, one can expect to pay anywhere from $150 to $350 for an average size Storm Window not including installation. It all depends upon what you choose.

So, should you buy a Storm Window? Well, that’s up to you. In some instances, you might be forced to if you don’t want to change the look of the home with new replacement windows. In other instances, replacing the entire window unit may be in better choice and best “bang for the buck”.

Storm Windows aren’t the dominant force they once were in the past. But, they are still very present today. The glass coatings and energy efficiencies they offer are certainly something to consider. However, the price of some Storm Units today may equal, in some instances, the price of a Replacement Window unit (just some food for thought).

As mentioned, Storm Windows today can provide some boost in Energy Efficiency. They can increase the overall insulation value of a window area noticeably in some instances. However, they are not necessarily an “air-tight” unit.

Before spending money on a Storm Window Unit, be sure to weigh out the long term affect these units will have. In most instances, Storm Windows don’t provide the long term energy payback that a replacement window unit would. Also, Storm Window units generally come with limited short term (6 months to 1 year) warranties.

In summary, be sure to weigh your options and do your homework. Storm Windows aren’t a bad thing to have depending upon the situation. If budget, location, or some other desire dictates, purchasing Storm Window units certainly isn’t a bad choice.

Like anything today, price is an important consideration when making any purchase. When it comes to windows, price is something you may have to negotiate. In most instances, a superior window product should be seriously considered. However, in most instances, a superior window product may cost a little more when compared to its average
counterparts.

What makes a window superior? And, what should you look at when considering a window purchase? Well, there are many things one should
take into the consideration. Here’s a list of things to look at when choosing a replacement window in the order you should consider them:

1. Window Composition:

Windows are made from various materials such as wood, aluminum, fiberglass, composites, vinyl, etc. There are numerous types. Choosing which type comes down to many things to include what is currently in the home and what benefit each brings. Overall, each material has its benefits and drawbacks. Allow time for a professional company to come and present to you their product and use this information to compare it to other products.

2. Glass Composition: Every window comes with glass.

The glass in the unit is called an “Insulated Glass Unit” or “I.G. Unit”. These I.G. Units come with many options. Some I.G. Units are “Dual Pane” (two pieces of glass) and others are “Triple Pane” (Three pieces of glass). Also, glass units come with different types of energy coatings such as “low-e” and inert gases such as “Argon Gas”. Finally, Insulated Glass units come with Spacer Systems. Confused yet? As you can see, this component is the “money maker” of window. Generally, 80% of a window is glass. Thus, this component will define the overall performance of the window. In summary, make sure you have a professional company come to you and physically demonstrate to you their Insulated Glass performance. Any reputable company can provide this service on site at the time or product demonstration in your home.

3. Frame/Sash Construction:

Just as every window has glass, it also has a frame and sash or sashes. The frame is what holds everything together and the sash or sashes are what “open” or operate. A frame has to be constructed to endure. It should be multi-chambered to provide a thermal boundary, structural support, and reduce noise. It should also allow for minimal air-
infiltration through the unit. Remember, a window is serving many purposes and the frame and sash construction is what ensures it sustains a high level of performance for the life of its use.

4. Company: This could very well be moved up to the number one spot.

Overall, do your homework. It’s best to deal with a manufacturer and have a direct line to the product and support. Not to mention the enhanced expertise. However, any reputable contractor or distributor will suffice. In summary, DEAL WITH AN EXPERT. Windows are not a project that one should gamble with. Make sure
you hire a company that specializes in windows. Meaning, window sales and installation. A great window isn’t great until its installed correctly and provided a comprehensive support program. Incorrect installation, a faulty product, or lack of knowledge of behalf of the contractor can lead to some potentially big and costly headaches.

5. Installation: This too is a critical area.

As mentioned in previous paragraphs, it is paramount that the installation be professional. But, things one must also consider is how will the window be mounted during installation? What insulation, if any, will be used between the window and the home framing (jambs)? Some window company’s use nothing between the new window and home allowing for air-gaps and a great source of air-infiltration negating the benefits of replacing the windows in the first place. Other window company’s understand the need, and possess the product and technique, to insulate this area with poly-urethane foam. In summary, talk to a professional company and ensure you receive a comprehensive explanation on how the window will be mounted, insulated, and finished. Be sure you understand completely what the final product will look like.

6. Warranty and Service:

Its cliché today to say make sure you get a good “warranty”. In windows, it is of utmost importance to ensure you not only get a GREAT warranty, but also a GREAT service plan. Warranties come in all types of formats. In summary, make sure you read the fine print. Ensure your product is a “No Hassel” Warranty. And, make sure your going to get the Service with that warranty. All too often customers are lured into a “Great Warranty” only to find that the Service is poor. It is not uncommon to have a window part or piece replaced under warranty, but the service to install this item is not included. Make sure you deal with a Professional Organization that will support your product purchase and service it.

7. Certifications and Accreditations:

There is governing bodies that exist today that provide oversight and structure to the window industry. These have been put in place to ensure proper measures are taken to protect the consumer. They are also in place to provide validity to the consumer that the products they are purchasing, and the company they are dealing with, are reputable and valid. These entities include, but are not limited to the NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council), Energy Star, AAMA (American Architectural Manufacturers Association), BBB (Better Business Bureau), EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), and so forth. The list goes on. Any professional organization will be very familiar with, and have affiliation with most, if not all, of these entities.

8. Price:

This is important also. However, what the “right” price is for a window product can only be determined by the person purchasing it. It’s simply a “perceived value” scenario. If you think it’s worth it, then it is. Generally speaking, a window product can range anywhere from $400 to $1500 for a window installed. But again, it depends on the type of window, service, warranty, and installation techniques you are receiving. In summary, don’t get too caught up in price. This is an important area for people to consider but it’s better to get quality over
quantity in this instance.

SUMMARY:
It can be seen that there are many things to consider when replacingyour windows. Listed above are the top eight which one might want to consider first when exploring this project. There is no “right” or “wrong” way to visit a window project. Just make sure you investigate the product and company you want to deal with.

Windows, in essence, serve the same purpose as a wall. They provide all the same functions while providing a view. If you were going to buy a wall for your home, wouldn’t you take your time to find out just what type of wall it is and who was going to build it?

• One of the most common reasons to replace existing windows is to increase the energy efficiency of your home — which reduces your heating and cooling bills and lowers greenhouse gas emissions. You’ll notice the savings immediately — because poorly performing windows and doors cause heating and cooling loss in a home. You’re literally throwing money out the window!

So, how do you know if a window or door is energy-efficient? Look for these features:

1. Multiple panes of glass

Double-pane glass insulates almost twice as well as single-pane. Triple-pane glass maximizes your energy efficiency.

2. Low-E (Low-emissivity) glass coatings

• These are layers of thermal protection inside insulating glass that:
• Help reflect summer heat and retain interior cooling.
• Help reflect winter cold and retain interior heat.
• Help prevent fade damage.

3. Argon (inert gas) between the glass panes

Argon is a natural, colorless, non-toxic gas that’s heavier than air. It adds a layer of insulation to further reduce heat transfer, making your home even more energy-efficient. Pella® products offer the energy efficient options that will meet or exceed ENERGY STAR® guidelines in all 50 states.*2

4. An energy-efficient window frame

• Wood frames are excellent insulators — they conduct less heat or cold into your home. In fact, they insulate 1,800 times better than aluminum.
• Fiberglass composite material offers the insulating properties of wood. It won’t expand and warp in the summer, or shrink and turn brittle during winter.
• Vinyl multi-chambered frames reduce heat loss for added energy efficiency ? and they’re exceptionally easy to care for.
• Aluminum is inexpensive and durable but has a poorer insulation rating, meaning the frames conduct more heat or cold into your home.

5. Tight seals

Windows and doors that don’t seal properly are drafty — affecting your comfort level and increasing your energy costs.

6. Quality installation.

If installed incorrectly, your windows and doors may not operate properly. Proper installation will help prevent air infiltration and even costly water damage to your home.

7. The NFRC label

It’s the only reliable way to determine the window’s (whole unit) energy performance and to compare products “apples to apples.”

The National Fenestration Ratings Council (NFRC) is a nonprofit organization for the window industry that developed an energy rating system based on whole-unit product performance — not just the glass.

• A The U-Factor represents the rate of heat flowing out of a window or door in an hour’s time. The lower the number, the better the glass insulates.
• B The Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) rating measures the amount of solar radiation that enters as heat. The lower the number, the less heat the glass allows in.

• Replacing windows throughout a home can be a big investment. But it’s an investment with great payback (see HYPERLINK “http://www.milgard.com/planning-your-project/budgeting/” l “years-of-great-payback#years-of-great-payback” Years of Great Payback below).
• You should establish your budget even before beginning your project. A Best Window Sales Representative can give you a free ballpark estimate on how much it might cost to replace your windows. It’s hard to provide an accurate cost range as a house can vary greatly in the number and size of its windows. But here are some basic guidelines for average-sized windows in an average home.
• Expect to pay an average of $500-$800 per window for replacements placed inside structurally sound window frames. It could go as high as $1,000 per window depending on the frame material and glass options. Double- and triple-glazed windows, or those filled with argon gas, increase energy savings but bump the cost to the higher end of the scale.
• If an existing window frame is rotted or damaged in any way, the frame must be rebuilt. This can increase the cost and necessitate the use of new construction windows.

If You’re Thinking of Using Credit

• Home equity lines of credit can be a good resource for financing this type of project. In fact, in some cases, the interest on home equity lines of credit is tax-deductible. Many bank websites have financing calculators you can use to figure out what your loan payments might be.

Other Budgeting Considerations

• You should establish your budget even before beginning your project. You want to be sure you have the money to comfortably afford either paying for the project with cash or through credit.
• Make decisions based on value and quality, not just price. After all, this is your home we’re talking about.
• Think about having the work done in stages to spread out the financial impact. It is often easier to create a more manageable budget by starting small and adding to the project at a later date. This will break the work into several jobs instead of one large project. The down side of doing a remodel in stages is that you may end up paying more in the long run. You may want to discuss these possibilities with your contractor to determine if they would apply to your project.

Years of Great Payback

• High-quality, energy-efficient replacement windows are annually demonstrated to be an excellent investment. According to the 2007 Cost vs. Value Report (a combined effort by Remodeling magazine and REALTOR® magazine), homeowners can expect to recoup an average of 80 percent for window replacement.
• Such return on investment makes replacement windows an excellent buy. Particularly since today’s energy-efficient windows and patio doors also can:

Reduce energy consumption.

• Reduce drafts and make your home more comfortable.
• Improve natural light and reduce glare.
• Help you take advantage of solar heat gain in cold climates or minimize it in hot climates.
• Provide years of easy operation and weather-tight seals.
• Drastically minimize HYPERLINK “http://www.milgard.com/care-and-warranty/window-and-door-care/” care and maintenance (particularly if the windows are made of vinyl or aluminum, or have fiberglass exteriors).
• Reduce noise.
• Reduce window condensation.
• Protect draperies, carpets and upholstery from fading or discoloring.

Do you have questions about your new Best windows or doors? Below are the questions—with answers from our manufacturing, install, and technical team of experts—that we most often get from homeowners. If your question is not answered here, please e-mail us at 1-800-292-5594. We are confident you will enjoy your new Best windows or doors for decades to come!

How do I maintain and clean my Gorell windows and doors?

You’ll be amazed at how easy Best windows and doors are to clean. Also, they require practically no maintenance. Use any window cleaner to clean the glass surface of your Best products. We recommend “Zep” Vinyl Cleaner for your vinyl window frames and sashes, and “Zep” Glass Cleaner for your Window and Door Glass. However, these are our recommendations. You may use any general cleaning product.

Can items such as the hanging apparatus for mini-blinds and window and door coverings be attached to Best Window & Door products without affecting the warranty on the products?

No, we do not recommend that you “puncture” or drill holes into any vinyl frame or door product. This will affect your warranty. Although your window(s) and/or door products are certainly strong enough to hold your blinds, we recommend that you keep your products “hole” free, or free of any drilling. Remember, a window and door are meant to keep the environment out. So, help us help you by not drilling any holes that may work against this goal.

Can I stain Best Window & Door vinyl windows?

Since your products are vinyl, there is no need to stain or paint. In summary, vinyl never requires any painting or staining. All you need to do is wipe it down to keep it clean and looking new!

Why is there moisture at the center of the window or near the bottom handle on the interior of my window?

Some moisture (condensation) on cold days at the meeting rail is normal and is actually an indication that your windows are performing correctly. The condensation you are seeing on the window is simply water from the home’s atmosphere. Quite often adding new windows, insulation, siding or roofing tightens the “envelope” of your home, which changes the moisture vapor exchange rate of the home. This resulting airborne water then becomes visible on any surface that will not absorb it—such as vinyl, glass or ceramic. It is the same concept as fog on a bathroom mirror or frost on a car window. Neither the mirror nor the car causes the problem; they simply let you see the moisture present. There are several ways to minimize this condensation, such as lowering the humidity in your home, increasing air movement within your home, or increasing the air exchange rate from interior to exterior.

For more information, HYPERLINK “http://www.gorell.com/downloads/gorell-condensation-article.pdf” t “_blank” click here to read “Condensation Causes and Cures.”

Why is there moisture on the exterior glass of my new windows?

This is a testament to how well your high-performance glass system is working!

Condensation occurs when moist air comes into contact with cool surfaces—such as glass—and the dew point temperature is reached. Low-emissivity glass is designed to reduce heat conduction through the glass unit, thus keeping heat in your home on cold days. With this improved performance, the surface temperature of the exterior glass remains cool—and the moist air in contact with that cold outer glass turns into condensation. This is not a fault of the insulating glass—it actually indicates how well the Low-E glass is working. The moisture will evaporate once the sun warms up the outside glass surface.

What is the best way to clean my Best Window Products.

Cleaning is very simple. Use a general cleaner such as “Fantastik” or “409” for your window and door frames. Use a glass cleaner like “Windex” for the glass surfaces of you window and doors. We recommend cleaning twice a year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. This ensures you

Where can I find U-value and Solar Heat Gain values for Best products?

Best Window & Door Company has numerous ways to find these numbers. You can contact our office to receive an NFRC label sticker sent to you with this information. You can also visit HYPERLINK “http://www.nfrc.org” www.nfrc.org and view the “Certified Products Directory”. There you will find Best Window & Door Company listed. And finally, you can simply go to our website at HYPERLINK “http://www.mybestwindow.com” www.mybestwindow.com and view our “Test Results” tab and view the “.pdf” with this information.

Are my screens covered in my warranty?

Yes. Your Best Window & Door Company window warranty includes screens. Should you “puncture”, tear, or have your screen come “undone”, all you need to do is contact our service department. We will schedule a time to pick up your screens and repair it.

Can’t wait? Then just drop your screen off at our manufacturing plant and will have it repaired that very same day!

Whom should I contact for service issues regarding my Best windows and doors?

Just call 1-800-292-5594 and ask for our “Service Department”. Or, go to HYPERLINK “http://www.mybestwindow.com” www.mybestwindow.com and complete the “Service Call” section on our website. We’ll get back to you within 24 hours of your request.

A window or door project can add beauty to your home. But, why stop there? updating your wood treatments around your windows and doors can add that finishing touch.
Oak,Pine, or Poplar are all common interior finishes that are applied our fenestration products. There are also numerous stains and paints that one can pick from to provide that aesthetic flair to your interior wood.

When you are doing that window or door project, don’t be afraid to go all the way. Add that flair of elegance of finishing touch to your project. You might be surprise to find that in some instances, the cost to update your interior wood isn’t as much as you think but provides a priceless look.

Grid Types
Grids are available in two finishes, Colonial (flat faced), and Contour (raised face). Not sure which one to choose? Ask our Sales Representative for a physical sample, or visit our manufacturing facility to see these grid finishes in action.
There are numerous patterns and colors to choose from. Custom grid patterns are available from square patterns, prarie pattern, diamond patterns, to custom arches or your own design. The possibilities are endless!

Standard Clear Pane Glass
Freely allows cold in and heat out in the winter
Freely allows heat in and cool out in the summer
Minimal UV protection – Means carpet, drapes and furniture to fade
High heating and cooling bills

BW60 High Performance Energy Saving Glass
Keeps winter heat in and cold air out
Keeps summer heat out and cool in
Blocks 120% of harmful UV rays- reduces fading of carpets, drapes and furniture
Makes a window ENERGY STAR® compliant so your heating and cooling bills are remarkably lower.
Qualifies for Federal Tax Credit (up to $1500) when used in qualifying window models
Year round comfort!
Summertime radiant heat is reflected from your home
Keeps summer heat out
Lowers your cooling costs
Higher insulation value
Reduces heating costs and cooling costs
Manufactured by Best Window & Door Company
What about regular Low-E glass??Although better than clear glass, standard Low-E glass does not perform to the level of BW60 Glass manufactured by Best Window & Door Company. BW60 Glass is a cutting edge glass system.

Determining Your Budget

Replacing your windows and doors can prove to be a big investment. But with all investments comes the payoff, because those new windows and doors add to the value and style of your home.

Before planning your project you should get your budget inline first, that way you know exactly how much you can spend. At Best Window and Door Company we can give you a ballpark estimate on how much it might cost to replace your windows and doors.

Years of Use and Payback

High-quality, energy-efficient replacement windows are annually demonstrated to be an excellent investment.

Such a Return On Investment (ROI) makes replacing your windows and doors an excellent buy. Particularly since today’s energy-efficent windows and doors also can:

• Reduce energy consumption.
• Reduce drafts and make your home more comfortable.
• Improve natural light and reduce glare.
• Help you take advantage of solar heat gain in cold climates or minimize it in hot climates.
• Provide years of easy operation and weather-tight seals.
• Drastically minimize care and maintenance.
• Reduce noise.
• Reduce window condensation.
• Protect draperies, carpets and upholstery from fading or discoloring.

Awning: A window that is hinged at the top of the sash, so that the bottom of the sash can swing open to the exterior of the building.

Balances: A system used in tilt double-hung or tilt single-hung units that makes it easy to open and close your windows.

Bay Window: A stunning picture window combination that extends outside the house and is flanked on either side by operating casement or double-hung tilt windows placed at 30-, 45- or 90-degree angles. Available with head and seat boards.

Bottom Sweep: The specially designed, flexible material at the bottom of a door that resists air and water infiltration and helps to ensure a tight seal.

Bow Window: An elegant series of three to six casement windows gently angled in a bow shape that extends outside the house structure. Generally, the units on the far ends are operational. Available with head and seat boards.

Caming: Usually brass or lead, caming is the ornamental material used to bond decorative glass components together.

Casement: A window that is hinged on one side, allowing the window to swing open to either the right or the left.

Check Rail (Meeting Rail): The horizontal members of a tilt double-hung sash that meet, and the vertical members of a slide/by sash that meet.

Circle Top (Round Top): Direct set quarter circles, half circles, half ellipses, arch tops, ellipses, full circles and gothic arch top windows that can be used alone, in combination or stacked above another window or door.

Clad: Refers to wood window and door parts that are covered with aluminum or vinyl on the exterior side of the frame and/or sash.

Direct Set: A stationary window unit in which the glass is glazed directly into the frame, with no operating sash members.

Divided Light: Division of light by the use of muntin bars.

Door Rollers: Two sets of tandem steel wheels with ball bearings for smooth operation. Usually found on sliding patio doors.

Double Hung Tilt: Both the upper and lower sash of this window slide up and down to allow air into the room, as well as tilt into a room for easy cleaning on both sides.

Drip Cap: A formed aluminum piece that is installed at the top of clad windows and doors to allow water to run off the unit instead of seeping around and behind the unit.

Edge Glued: Process of gluing wood together in order to make a wider or thicker piece of lumber.

Eyebrow: Round top window consisting of a partial radius head. Typically used above a tilt, casement window or French door.

Frame: The combination of the head, side jambs and sill of a window.

French Casement: A beautiful combination of frame and sash, hinged at the left and right side jambs, with the center astragal attached to each sash, allowing both sash to open at 90 degrees and giving a clear center opening with no center mull post to obscure the view.

French Doors: Panels are hinged at the left and right side jambs, and open from the center. Optional center-activated flush bolt system for added security.

French Sliding Doors: Available in two-, three- and four-panel combinations that provide the look of a French door with the space-saving benefits of a sliding door.

Furniture Door: Innovative and convenient entry door system with an operating sidelite to expand the door opening and provide greater entry space when moving furniture or large items.

Garden Bay: A picture window that extends outside the house structure and is flanked on either side by operating or stationary casement windows placed at 90-degree angles to the interior wall. This window has a glass overhead pane to allow sunlight to flow directly into the window area – great for plants!

Glazing: Refers to both the type of glass used in a window and the actual process of installing glass in the window frame or sash.

Grilles: Horizontal or vertical bars applied to the exterior, interior or both sides of the window glass for the purpose of design. Some grilles can be removed for easy cleaning.

Hardware: The locks, cranks and hinges on windows and doors used to make them operational and secure.

Head: The horizontal piece that makes up the top of a window or door frame.

Jamb: The vertical (left and right) portions of a window or door frame.

Jamb Extension: An extra frame member added onto the jamb to extend the frame to match the precise wall thickness of your home.

Jamb Liner: The tracks found inside the jambs of double-hung and single-hung windows on which the sash slide up and down.

Lockset: The complete lock system comprised of the lock mechanism, knobs, keys, plates, strikes and other accessories.

Low E Glass: Low E stands for “low emissivity,” a microscopic coating on glass that helps keep your house warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.

Mulled (Mulling): Joining two or more window or door units together to form combinations. The joint is finished with an exterior mull cap or mull trim.

Muntin Bars: The narrow horizontal and/or vertical grilles in a True Divided Lite unit that separate individual lites, or panes, of glass.

Nailing Fin: A leg of the extended aluminum or vinyl exterior of clad units that forms a 90 degree angle to the window and is positioned flush against the sheeting of the building. Clad windows are easily secured in the rough opening by nailing through the fin into the sheeting and jack studs of the rough opening.

Pane: A single piece of glass within a window or door.

Parting Stop: Weather stripping that prevents air and water infiltration. This is commonly found at the head and side jamb of a double-hung unit.

Picture Window: A large, stationary window used to capture wide views of exterior landscape. Can be combined with other functional windows such as double-hungs and casements, and/or topped with direct-set or awning windows for enhanced views.

Picture Sliding Patio Doors: A large, stationary picture window glass panel flanked by one or two sliding panel doors that slide in front of the picture window panel to give sweeping views.

Rails: The horizontal members of the framework of a window sash or door panel.

Rough Opening: The opening in the wall where the window or door is to be installed, slightly larger than the size of the unit to allow squaring.

R-Value: A measurement of how much a material resists heat transfer. A higher R-Value means a greater insulating effect and a lower rate of heat flow.

Sash: The top and bottom horizontal rails and vertical left and right stiles that house the window glass.

Side Jamb: The vertical left and right members of a frame.

Sidelite: A narrow fixed or operating sash consisting of either steel or wood stiles and rails, glazed with clear or decorative glass and matching the sight lines of the entry door. Sidelites are typically mulled to the entry door on one or both sides.

Sill: The bottom of the frame of a window or door.

Simulated Divided Lite: Windows with grilles adhered to the interior and exterior of the window glass, in a variety of decorative options, to simulate the look of True Divided Lite.

Single Hung: A window with two sash, where the bottom sash slides up and down and the top sash is fixed. Many single-hung windows also have a tilt-in option on the bottom sash for easy cleaning.

Slide-by: Windows that slide open horizontally. Available in single, double and triple units.

Sliding Patio Door: Up to four glass door panels that slide on tracks giving fast, easy access to the outdoors.

Spacer: An anodized aluminum bar used to separate the panes of glass in an insulating window. ts are joined vertically.

Stacked: When two or more units are joined vertically.

Stationary: A non-operating sash, panel or unit.

Stop: Molding set in place to hold, position or separate window parts.

Tempered Glass: Float glass that is heated and then cooled rapidly to make it several times stronger than annealed glass. Standard in all doors, tempered glass is safer than annealed glass because when it is broken it falls into pebble-like pieces without sharp edges.

TFT (Thin Fin Trim): Units that have an aluminum or vinyl-clad exterior frame with a rigid extruded nailing fin on head, side jambs and, possibly, sill.

Tilt: Both sash of this window slide up and down to allow air into the room, as well as tilt into a room for easy cleaning on both sides.

Transom: A window stacked above another window or door.

True Divided Lite: Individual lites of single glass or insulating glass, separated by muntin bars.

U-Value: A measurement of how much energy a material conducts. The lower the U-Value, the greater the insulating effect.

Weather Stripping: A strip of resilient material designed to seal the sash and frame members to reduce air and water infiltratio